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Post by Admin on May 8, 2014 17:46:42 GMT -5
My first Cave that I bought several years ago has never been restored Well that's gonna change. It is a 1974 10" cave Chrome deluxe. I just sent the stand's pier and the two counter weights off to the chrome shop for chroming. $540 yikes! Chrome is very expensive these days due to the cost of disposing of the chemicals used in the process. My question is now whether to do a full restore as original or to add something I've wanted on a cave ever since I bought it. Several months ago I purchased a 7 1/2" byers gear drive from Ed byers (one of his last). I'm thinking of using it on this scope. The chrome and polished aluminum along with the gold iodized gears would look pretty nice I would think. What do you think?
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Post by Datapanic on May 11, 2014 22:42:02 GMT -5
I haven't tried a Byers drive so I don't really know about that, but the Cave RA Drives, when adjusted properly, give good tracking for hours. If the Byers drive could be a "Bolt-On" addition, then I would go for it. It might even be possible to make a special Clock Drive Housing Back Plate to facilitate the Byers drive and then keep the original untouched.
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Post by gelkin on May 16, 2014 21:36:39 GMT -5
It's not difficult to ad a complete drive and save the original un touched. It only takes a plate to mount the worm block to. I really like the Byers drives. They are as classic as the Cave. Attachments:
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Post by Admin on May 21, 2014 13:27:39 GMT -5
I agree. I think I'm going to go for it, add the byers gears to it and look into the possibility of a cover for the gear. Actually maybe just a partial cover.
Turk
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Post by Admin on May 21, 2014 13:32:31 GMT -5
Just pulled out my byers gears and it's actually a 10" main gear. Even better! Here is a pict.
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Post by Admin on Jul 10, 2014 7:04:48 GMT -5
I contacted the chrome guys today and the parts are still not done. They told me they got a surprise when they found out the hex head bolts were still in the counterweights. I told them they were in there when they were dropped off. Don't know what that means other than they tried to plate them with them in and it would cause a problem with drainage. Oh well, not my problem yet I guess.
These guys are really good. They repaired all the imperfections in the weights and then plate with copper, nickel and then the chrome. I've used them before and you haven't seen chrome until you've seen "show chrome". Deep dark rich color. I can't wait.
As for the byers gears, I took them out the other day to test the motor and it did not work. Ed told me to send it back and he called me latter to say there is nothing wrong with the motor. He said I wired it wrong. He was right. One problem though, he sent me the wrong wiring diagram the first time. When he sent the motor back he wired it and even put a power cord on it! The diagram he sent this time was for the right motor.
I also bought a 12V stepper motor and pinion gear from him also. I may use it for this restoration as I really would like to use this out at the observatory with just a battery.
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Post by Admin on Aug 3, 2014 13:41:02 GMT -5
I just got my Chrome back from the Chromers. I gave them the Steel pier tube and the two counter weights. Wow! They did a great job. I will have some pictures later.
They filled all the cast voids on the counter weights with soldier. It was a tough job. Heating up a 60 lb. counter weight is impossible. They did the best they could and then chromed them. The owner did not like them when they came out of the first copper bath so he bet his worker a dollar that he could not make them better. They redid them. They came out spectacular.
The owner John told me he added the dollar on my bill! $576 was the total cost. The estimate was $575 :-)
Tom T
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Post by gelkin on Aug 4, 2014 19:34:43 GMT -5
Turk your making me feel much better. I spent 400 to do the pier and two counter weights. Plus an hours drive each way to deliver and pickup. Attachments:
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